La Butte-aux-Cailles
A bohemian secret village in the heart of the 13th arrondissement, between street art, charming bistros and cobblestone lanes.
The hidden village of Paris
Perched on a hilltop between Place d'Italie and Cité Universitaire, the Butte-aux-Cailles is one of Paris's best-kept secrets. With cobblestone streets, low houses and facades covered in street art, it feels like a provincial village — just 10 minutes on foot from our hotel.
This neighbourhood defies time: no chain stores here, just independent bistros, natural wine bars, artist workshops and genuine local life. It's the Paris that Parisians keep to themselves.
From a windmill hill to a bohemian village
The name "Butte-aux-Cailles" likely comes from Pierre Caille, a 16th-century landowner. In medieval times, it was a hill covered with windmills and vineyards overlooking the Bièvre river, now underground. The neighbourhood remained a working-class suburb, far from Haussmann's grand boulevards.
In 1783, aeronaut Jean-François Pilâtre de Rozier landed on the Butte-aux-Cailles after one of history's first hot-air balloon flights. During the Paris Commune in 1871, the area became a bastion of popular resistance, forging its rebellious and independent spirit.
In the 20th century, the Butte-aux-Cailles preserved its village character while the rest of the 13th was transformed with the Olympiades towers. Since the 2000s, street art has invaded its walls, with works by Miss.Tic, Mosko and Jef Aérosol. Today, it's a haven of bohemian charm and creativity steps from Place d'Italie.
Must-see highlights
Street art & murals
The walls of the Butte-aux-Cailles are an open-air gallery. From Miss.Tic's stencils to Mosko's giant animals, every alley offers a visual surprise. An essential street art trail of the 13th.
Bistros & terraces
From traditional bistros to intimate cocktail bars, the Butte-aux-Cailles is full of gourmet addresses. South-West cuisine at Gladines, natural wines at Le Merle Moqueur, crêpes at Le Temps des Cerises.
Art Deco swimming pool
The Butte-aux-Cailles pool, listed as a historic monument, is an Art Deco jewel from the 1920s. Fed by a natural hot water well (28°C), it features an outdoor pool open year-round.
Parks & greenery
The Square des Peupliers with its wisteria-lined workers' houses, the Jardin Brassaï and its peaceful corners… The Butte-aux-Cailles offers unexpected pockets of greenery, perfect for a bucolic break.
Our recommendations
Le Temps des Cerises
Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles
Cooperative bistroLes Abeilles
Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles
Crêperie & tea roomPiscine Butte-aux-Cailles
5 place Paul Verlaine
Art Deco poolChez Gladines
30 rue des 5 Diamants
South-West cuisineLe Merle Moqueur
Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles
Wine barSquare des Peupliers
Rue des 5 Diamants
Secret gardenStay near the Butte-aux-Cailles
Hôtel Inn Design is just 10 minutes from this bohemian village. Book and explore secret Paris.
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